THE GOLDEN AGE OF TV AND THE BBC RIPPER MURDERS!!!

What misery to be about to write praising the BBC’s brilliantly scripted and superbly acted Ripper Street, only to discover the murderers in BBC management have just axed the damned thing. If we have heard about the Golden Age of television in the US, with series like Homeland and many others, why is it that pathetic Britain always ruins the things it is best at? Ripper Street wins by avoiding creaky clichés like Jack the Ripper and instead goes for something that is rich, complex, historically convincing and socially important too. It has created very original characters and it never shies away from issues from Banking to Homosexual repression. It has been marvellously eccentric with its characters and at times deeply moving.

But just as it is getting better and better, lo and behold some idiot in White City street axes it, in another act of TV Murder. It is because the BBC, suffering from no leadership whatsoever, and after the Jimmy Saville scandals and others, is dominated by cowards and in fighting cynics who can only make their own way and feather their nests by getting rid of some one else’s excellence. There may be hope, with the Guardian announcing five hours ago they may have found a funding partner, but why isn’t the BBC that partner? We should all go down to the BBC building and pull up paving stones, tear back railings to assault the over paid ignoramuses and scrawl THE BBC WILL NOT BE BLAMED FOR NOTHING in dripping blood.

PA PRESS

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THE DOCTOR, BRIAN COX AND THE TRIUMPH OF THE BBC

TARDIS1[1]

The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and science. He to whom the emotion is a stranger, who can no longer pause to wonder and stand wrapped in awe, is as good as dead — his eyes are closed.”

Not the words of Professor Brian Cox, who just gave his charming and brilliant TV lecture at the Royal Society on The Science of Dr Who, but the words of the scientist at the heart of his physics, and the Dr’s too, Albert Einstein. Cox’s programme, including inserts of his mistaken entrance into The Tardis, in confusion over BBC make-up and his witty interaction with Matt Smith’s Dr, was both beautiful and filled with rapt awe, that sings out of Cox’s endlessly clear and accessible voice. A hugely popular voice, much enjoying the show too, not unreasonable for a former small-time rock musician, but never a populist or dumbed down either.

Beginning with Michael Faraday’s nineteenth century lecture at the Royal Society on the chemistry of candle light, he asked the question of whether Time Travel is possible. With the use of celebrity entrances, doing experiments explaining the point and wave movements of light, the spectrometry of elements, with Charles Dance squirting colourful, flaring things into flame, and the relationship between Space and Time, viewer and viewed, he effortlessly opened the box on Relativity. So proving future time travel possible, in fact always happening, in small ways, depending how fast you are travelling, since we move in relative space and time to one another. But clearly mapping the issue of travelling into the past, since the Cone of the Future is defined by the Universe’s ultimate speed limit, the big no-no, travelling faster than the speed of light itself.

He also ventured towards the Dr’s great opponents, Aliens, discussing the paradox that in an infinite Universe we should be being visited by Aliens all the time. They might have brought in a Sontaran or a Cyber Man, but on the other hand it would have been creaky, and Cox went back to wonder instead, to the journey of imagination, when he described how far the radio waves have travelled into the Universe, since the first broadcast of Dr Who in 1963; beyond the reaches of the Milky Way.

Of course we all travel back in time in our heads, through the physical notes that Faraday left of that lecture, through memory too and the accumulation of knowledge, the discarding of what is proved false. What we leave behind too, when we are gone. But Cox always has his eyes clearly set on the future, and the future of teaching science too. So, grasping that ultimate ‘speed limit’, he explained what happens when you touch the edge of the Future Cone. You only can if space-time-bending matter implodes, a Red Dwarf, creating a Black Hole. Of course a Black Hole, in the very smart and very modern reality behind the poetry of Dr Who, is what powers The Tardis, The Eye Of Harmony.

Cox’s words were beginning to sing, filled with harmonies, as he described both the reality and beauty of the Eye of Harmony, a point in time always frozen for the viewer, where you get very strung out indeed, if you are passing beyond that Event Horizon yourself, until you are crushed to a point of Infinite Mass. But as to traveling back in time, he also explained how no one knows if it is possible, because it might theoretically be possible to bend that entire and limited Future Cone around on itself and change the current map of physics, so effectively coming up behind yourself, and everything else, though never in this case up your own backside.

It left open the continuous possibility of wonder and discovery, worthy of all that poetry and imagination in Dr Who. So to a quiet nod to that Universe engine inside the Tardis, something bigger on the inside than outside, like the Human mind itself, with an eye on the limits of reality and discovery, but still in Einstein’s world of open-eyed awe. It was brilliant from start to finish, and unites what the BBC does best, passion and invention, with the time travel of creativity. Another thing it did was stress what is behind the Dr’s character itself, the freedom and courage of imaginative creativity and extraordinary adventure. We need more of this, but perhaps the excellence of Dr Who leads the way.

PHOENIX ARK PRESS

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PETER ACKROYD’S SHAKESPEARE

Shakespeare[1]

One of the more disappointing books we’ve read of late, partly because of the strength of expectation, must be Peter Ackroyd’s Shakespeare, the biography. With a supposedly subtle white glove draped across the highly designed front cover, to suggest the weave of everything, which Falstaff comments on in The Merry Wives of Windsor, this hefty tome is surprisingly conventional and very much one for the Establishment too.

Reassuringly researched, with reportedly a team behind him to check the facts, and so wary of making mistakes, it attempts a different voice by using short chapters and unusual quotations to take us back to a time, successful sometimes in a linguistic impression of chrisolm oil at a Stratford birth, for instance – as in the language making the texture of lives – yet says nothing really new or important at all. It is not that ignoring all the competing theories about Shakespeare is wrong, what is is ignoring the intense passions and conflicts that a period and the problems of history itself evoke and why.

The reason of course is that Shakespeare is such an all-encompassing writer, the poet of all time, that any attempt at conventional biography as an explanation or reflection of his genius, his facility, fails. You need someone like the Russian surrealist Bulgakov, who wrote his fictive Life of Mr Moliere, to try and unite the art and the facts. It is only ever an attempt. But what is so disappointing is that a brilliant creative novelist like Ackroyd, wunderkind of imaginative time travel, and fakery too, above all such a specialist on the London of the period, just opts for safety. So the author who wrote The Thames, Sacred River, and spoke on Dessert Island Disks of being on the side of the ‘spiritual’ camp, in the science-faith split, just fights shy of the issues that might have struck a real sounding bell to Shakespeare and the mystery of his linguistic ‘miracle’, language’s miracle, at a very specific time. Of course for everyone who approaches Shakespeare there is a kind of sanctity that must be acknowledge too, the author who authors trust above all, (except Tolstoy), but that sanctity might come with a little more profanity.

In assuring us Shakespeare is such a conventional writer then, so interested in power, for instance, so consumed by Kingship, that naturally reflected his career path or even his ‘politics’, he sometimes bores, while also touching on ideas that might be really interesting. That those original Wooden O’s were kinds of ‘wombs’ of creativity, for instance, seen within the context of a language in astonishing flux and self-discovery, at a period of intense spiritual conflict during The Reformation. Actual places of magic then, as Katherine Duncan Jones argues. Or that for the author who conceived of such strange, eventful histories, baldly factual history is not quite enough, especially because Shakespeare was so aware of it.

There are flashes of real creative insight, for instance when Ackroyd squashes the competing authorship and anti-Stratford theories with the simple remark that Shakespeare could not have lied about the happiness of a rich Stratford and Warwickshire childhood without some serious psychic disturbance on the surface of his plays. He is a man who knows the connections between writing and the life truths. Yet in just suring up a reassuring view of the validity of word of mouth reports, John Aubrey’s first impressions, or vignets around the few details there are, like those yards of red cloth and Shakespeare and the King’s Men processing in the train of James I, when the Lord Chamberlain’s Men became The Kings Men in 1604, he voids half the point of ‘the play’, the first professional players and playwrights in their new theatres and the struggle of meaning through art.

The biggest cop out is that ‘Shakespeare had no humanitarian purpose’, or it was really only about survival, money and putting bums on seats; the great entertainer, at the centre of a playwriting factory in London. You know what he means about the Humanitarian purpose question, as though we had to fix Shakespeare to a political party, and Dr Jonson said no one but a fool ever wrote for anything but money, but it is just rather disappointing about a writer who went so far and challenged himself so much.

Then there is his treatment of Southwark, that says so little about a place that was such an interesting Reformation fault line too. It is not the stewes, the brothels, or the bear baiting and gamboling dens there that are so important, but the position of the Bishop of Winchester, St Saviours church, Ben Jonson’s description of The Globe as a ‘fortress to the whole parish’ and why Shakespeare might have followed John Gower’s and not Chaucer’s literary tradition, or how the ‘liberties’ affected Shakespeare, younger and older.

The truth is not nearly enough work has been done on the significance of early plays like the three parts of Henry VI, that so sound the historical importance of Southwark, and probably started around 1592. But Ackroyd, as if he is getting old and weary, in need of a literary pension himself, quickly voids the challenges of a place and has Shakespeare inured to it all, spending most of his time up on wealthier Silver Street, near the Cripplegate.

Yet Shakespeare spent at least ten years there, probably longer, it was the place of the Rose and Swan, and the locus of the Globe, so his creative outlet whether in London or Stratford. While in picking John Gower to be the Chorus for Pericles, in the year his brother Edmund died, 1607, with such an issue of brothels highlighted in that strange play, it suggests how significant a place was to his themes and even crises. Pericles is also a play that has a scenario of a coat of arms at its centre, a withered branch flowering at the top, when his youngest brother, also an actor in London, had just died within four months of his own infant son, who was marked down in the church register as ‘base born’. Perhaps it is one of the reasons for that much noted ‘sea-change’ in Shakespeare’s art, a phrase from The Tempest, towards romances trying to heal time and families.

The truth is though that all the clothes of elegant or nervous research around Ackoryd’s own words and insights swamp his own voice. So it is highly significant that he suggests Shakespeare was ‘protected’ on Bankside and in London, in the backing of patrons or powers-that-be who were perhaps not exactly ‘establishment’, yet it is never really followed up. It would be the antidote to a book like 1599 by James Shapiro that takes a boy’s own view of the player’s independence, carrying that wood south of the river to build The Globe and a thrilling year in Shakespeare’s life. The truth is though that Francis Meres suggests Shakespeare had already well succeeded in London before The Globe was even built, as Ackroyd calls Shakespeare a ‘phenomenon’, and The Globe’s position within the skirts of the Liberty of the Bishop of Winchester is still of untapped significance.

If nothing comes from nowhere, except perhaps Cordelia’s silent love, it is even more important at a time where English history itself seems to appear from nowhere. Ackroyd touches on one of the keys to it all, language as metaphor, those clear springs in the old city, which borders on saying something else, and the uncertain ‘map’ of place that cannot be subsumed to the apparent facts, which is also the opposite of Shapiro’s high American literalism and attempt at precise factual, even journalistic detail. Yet Shapiro succeeds where Ackroyd fails because of the passion of his imaginative engagement, the sensitivity of his discourse about Shakespeare’s Stratford influences and the effect of plays like Henry V, Julius Caesar or As you Like It on contemporary audiences and why. That of course is not enough either, always the poet vanishes again, as was his intention and freedom, but it proves the need for something the great writer knew above all, so underestimated as instinctive storyteller, the compelling narrative.

PHOENIX ARK PRESS

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FOR THE CHAIRMEN OF THE CAMPAIGN AGAINST US CENSORSHIP, WHO SHOULD NOT BE GUARDIAN OF ANYBODY’S WORDS!

ON BRACKLESHAM SANDS

The burnt-skin glare of day, sun sighing,
Beaching into reefs of deep red light, as twilight reels in the bay.
The darkening night shore smells of nameless sea flowers and of death.
Lights up.
Neon columns proclaim the distant town, and the raw, rough boys.
Out there, beyond harbour; stationary ships, slack bouys,
But hopeful lights,
And here, braving the hard shore edge, the square box windows on private lives.

Trippers retreat and we reclaim new territory; the fishermen.
Moon films of sandy wet, mounded by riggish worm,
Everywhere the bait, under our stealthy feet.
A torch beam blinks, goes out, searching and dipping in and out.
My new found neighbour in the dark? A friend?
His grittish, shadowed knowledge shy of those purer trails;
Bright corridors down the lovely moon,
Across the wild sea, to you alone, to me?
My private, sacred angle,
But shared by everyone who looks and moves along the shore,
And wide as seeing.
A person is like a poem’s line,
Experience the sea.

We are all illuminated, or darkened.
We are everything, or nothing; pebble or the sea.
I loved you, but lost our thread. The cast too sharp, I broke the line.
Why did you hurt so much, for fear of being hurt,
Or fear of hurting? But nothing can be caught.
Cut fish flesh, blood, and a barb,
Weighted on sand slop beach, then flung to the shrugging waters:
The dead-head plop of expectation,
My isolated drowning, or a rising dream of hope.

Who needs a fish,
Trust to the land?
Two girls, hand in hand,
Come trailing the whispering bay,
Suddenly laughing, out of the dark,
Navigating my alien warning, my weird intrusion,
To disappear down the moon,
Like youth.

The world is a trick of the light.
A child can feel the sea through the new dropped line,
Sense into mind, testing the hopeful mystery, then knowing,
Pleased or shocked or horrified.
But we grow into failing feeling, for safety’s sake,
Or trust blind luck, a skill, much harm – the catch.
Or we drown in scales of pain,
Too sharp for human skin,
Cutting an opening in our dying blood.

Borrowed rod, fixed point, nowhere,
Sunk in the sand,
Stabbing the spattered stars,
For delicate direction, certainty,
But flagging a sea of centuries.
Yet the bay held us all, whole, in this element, a while,
Soft kissed the dreaming air, and gently urging swell,
Wide as the swaying sky.
Its silent crash of noise, then boom,
Sounding my restlessness and wanting.
A longing, limitless, or a learning to be in peace.

Nothing stops. Everything is dark and light, moving.
Scales of the sea bass moon glance on a breaking wave.
As the earth tilted back on the crescent,
Sunken to half blood orange,
A giant question in the sky,
It vanished too, over the rim, hooked on its orbit; but a sea change.

As the tide-turn changed our fisher minds.
We both crept up the shore, shifted, wary of cold, failure,
Purposefully drifting back,
Neighbourly as seaweed.
As the earth rolled back, looping the lightless sun,
Curving again, through sleep, into glaring waking,
The stars were endless though, the sea a lovely dream,
Wet sand on skin as warm as touch re-found,
While an ancient line, taught into deeper waters,
Caught me nothing, and everything.

DCD

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POPE FRANCIS AND MICHELANGELO’S MOUSE

It was Dad who was always so fond of the story of St Francis, this extraordinary Pope’s namesake and one of the great medieval reformers, just like this real man of God, Francis, a Pope for our times. I guess that soldier turned inspirer went so deep here because he is so associated with animals. GK Chesterton, a Catholic and author of the Father Brown detective books wrote a biography of him wonderfully called Brother Sun and Sister Moon. Whether you are a believer or not it is that human engagement with all life, with the sun, moon, stars and animals that sings of large spirits. St Francis is at the heart of a little fable called Michelangelo’s Mouse, set in renaissance Italy, teaching a mouse called Jotto how to follow his dreams, his artistic inspiration and become famouse!

Michelangelo’s Mouse is available at Amazon at $2.99

DCD

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THE TRUTH OF AMERICAN CENSORSHIP

I nearly fell off my chair laughing when an American friend sent this through.

Shelf Awareness Pro for Wednesday, October 9.

Congratulations to Michael Jacobs, president and CEO of Abrams Books,
who has been elected chairman of the board of the Academy of American
Poets. He is also chairman of the National Coalition Against Censorship
and is a member of the Board of Governors of Yale University Press.

I’ve already commented on the joke of someone like Michael Jacobs having anything to do with literature or poets. But to see him as Chairman of the National Coalition Against Censorship just highlights the rot going on in America, like the current Government crisis. I’d go so far as to call it evil. Michael Jacobs is the man who fixed an internal enquiry at Abrams, breached book contracts and lied to the US Authors Guild. The Guild lawyer informed me he would try to blacken my name, and insisted he respond, so he backed down. One of the whole points of that fight was the lies my ex and my editor had told over months, and a fight against the most fundamental principles of both law and non-censorship. Then he instructed an entire department at Abrams not to read this blog, while hiring lawyers in the UK to try and silence me too. I resisted. He had already wrecked my career in America, censored my books and stories, behaved appallingly in an extraordinary family crisis in late 2009, exploited a situation to remove Publisher Howard Reeves at Abrams, who he did not like, perhaps because Howard is gay, and finally it has lead to his two law firms provenly perjuring themselves to defend a law action in the New York Supreme Court, which involved a stream of lies and distortions. I have already asked the question, if any of this is libel, why hasn’t Phoenix Ark been taken to court, or elements of a blog removed? Because it is true and they cannot censor it or me.

It is only about money, highly orchestrated sales of questionable series like TTFN or Diary of A Wimpy Kid, upholding the ‘joys’ of text messaging or dubious attitudes inside Abrams to secrets of abusive behaviour, that came to define the abuse of an author and fundamental principles, but Michael Jacobs being an anti Censorship figure-head is like the money lenders deep in the Temple or like appointing President Assad to a Board of Clean Air and Anti-Pollution!

DCD

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Abrams, Obama, Shut Downs, Government Corruption and Impeaching the Speaker

Sorry to blog a dead horse, but the absolute third world farce in the US much reflects the joke at my New York publisher Abrams, which became a complete abuse of executive power and involved open lies, that led to proven perjury about it in the New York Supreme court. Then why, if a Publisher could do what they did to their own contracted author, stressing the all powerful titles of President or Vice President, and their jobs and rights over anyone else’s, or the New York Supreme Court could simply ignore proven perjury, should you expect much more from Capitol hill? Systems and due process are in melt down everywhere.

The monied rot at the heart of America has been totally exposed and this is worse than Berlusconi and Italian politics! More sinister though to hear from the New York Times that this is not unexpected at all, but carefully planned. Which means that the testing ground Republicans really want now is the Debt Ceiling, and a potential default next week that has never happened in US History. Who is going to make vast capital out of that? For those who know, the image of America as the land of the free or the brave, a truly mature Democracy, has often become as cracked as that Liberty Bell. Obama Care was passed into Law, and the Republicans should not be allowed to touch it without a new election.

So one solution? Well, if Presidents can be impeached (though not Michael Jacobs or Susan Van Metre in a private, totally undemocratic publisher) for failing their oaths of office, why don’t Obama and The Democrats move to impeach speaker Boehner, for failing his country, and his oath of office, and being led by a tiny interest group. Then they might help impeach the Abrams lot too and have a Tea party!

DCD

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THE QUESTING OF DRUE HEINZ

Why the interest here, suddenly, about the rather good Phoenix Ark article about Drue Heinz, during the war in Switzerland, and her links to the OSS, the Office of Strategic Services, forerunner to the CIA? It is surely too long back to bring any interest from the Services, even if Drue Heinz was such an enormously prominent Manhattan socialite, and bound into the Heinz fortune too, if Baked Beans have had a crisis recently. She funded the Paris Review and many arts projects.

Yet that necessarily murky world demands a few answers too. What really happened to Dale Wilford Maher in 1948? What links did that group in Switzerland have to the chemical plant, IB Faben, that used Jewish slave labour? What was that meeting in the Swiss house just after the war really about? There is a strange story involved about ALIU too, the Art Looting Investigation Unit, set up by American services, because people at that Swiss home were certainly involved in the Art world during the war and with figures like Goering. It would make a good movie, but if we’ve touched on anything sensitive, and again those neutral territories were always the centre of spying, we are currently on Corfu for a chat!

It remains true that despite Bill Clinton’s efforts to open the files on Switzerland, as part of the Holocaust Commission, and on the programme instigated just after the war, called Safehaven, which crucial people like Allen Dulles wanted ignored, turning American attention towards the Soviet Union, many of those important files remain closed. Open them and you would find a can of worms indeed.

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GOING HOME TO VIDOS

Well, you don’t see that every day! Vidos, of course, the little environmental island just off Corfu port and this time it wasn’t the sealions, but a group of six Serbian blokes, unfurling that red, white and blue flag on the boat over, with the double eagle that is also the crest of the Greek Orthodox Church on Mount Athos. The white haired Captain pumped out semi military music straight from the Second War and sunbathers stood up, startled as we docked. They were taking a Cross to the island and in two days the Serbian Prime Minster will visit too, for a little ceremony and blessing, once a year. It must be the Serbian hospital links from WWI and mixing Balkans sensibilities. But since an ex was Serbian American, not that she ever knew anything of her own history, or anyone else’s, will the haunting of Phoenix Ark never stop?!

Since we are supposed to love animals, and actually do, more about the wildlife on the little isle. We forgot to mention the tame rabbits, that have clearly bred with hares, by the size of their springy back legs, hopping around the restaurant regardless, among the tame and strutting pheasants, as if no one ever had any idea of eating them at all. Vicious evolution appears to have stopped on Vidos, with the beautiful views back to the island, until the boat missed its first five o’clock stop and then was half an hour late for the last bus home. Phone calls were made. Joan, from Lincolnshire, who came nine years back and fell in love with vanishing or hopeless Greek men, twice, began to talk the evil eye, but despite that tourist’s dream just to relax and take in the pointlessly beautiful light, still humans had to hurry on, as we do. As we sat there waiting, a man talked half a Kilo of plutonium, somewhere in Albania, if you only had the will, and the escaping sealions too, two years back, lured home to their enclosure by free fish. The boat got back at last and suddenly new meetings were broken by disappearing mopeds, hurrying home.People’s real lives.

So to AM Holmes and “This Book Will Save Your Life”, the last ten pages consumed over a half kilo of white and a little meze. If you want to fall in love with a writer, god forbid, read that very American but hugely touching book. Then look at the Pub photo in the back, so beautiful, so brave, though age changes everything. Such a work about human loneliness, but the vital attempt to connect, could only produce a desire to swim or drown. Splosh! How snorkels change the landscape, suddenly embedded with reeds and fish, breathing deeply, in an alien element. You drift back, pathetic in your vulnerability, escaping the sea, goggle-eyed, as if the encounter with the furriness of a rock on the shelving shore had changed anything. Perhaps it had, seeing in, because suddenly the bus back home was filled with real people. The manly, bald headed driver with a chip about driving a bus, the girl, suddenly challenged by the important ticket man, the sunset over the airport, where planes suggest anywhere else but this. AM Holmes makes you cry at the pain, and the pleasure of everything.

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ROMAN ABRAMOVICH AND THE SEAL OF CORFU’S CHARM?

Vido-on-Vidovdan-pano[1]

Well, it’s not often you come around the corner, through a forest of shedding pines trees, to see two sealions clapping flippers and gulping fish. It was in a little seabound enclosure off the tiny islands of Vidos, opposite Corfu town, where a glass bottomed ‘underwater’ cruise boat opposite Albania had stopped for the fishy show. Vidos is a kind of island nature reserve and camping site, just a ten minute boat trip from Corfu island, modest at 2 Euros, and populated by rabbits, tame pheasant and Guiney foul. If the mark of a people’s civilisation though is how they treat their animals, the people behind the trip should triple the size of the enclosure, with little hit to their profits. At around 30 by 12 feet in the water, it is not nearly big enough for two adults, however deep, although they certainly looked sleek, healthy and well fed. It helped a little Human economic enterprise and yet, as the boat left, there was still the mournful bark of trapped nature in their cries. They could easily increase its size.

Back down at the restaurant with the human animals, one of the cheapest, best and emptiest around, intrepid Phoenix Ark Press was attempting some investigative travel writing again, which of course can only be the Gonzo journalism of an unhearing world! The sweet waiter put it brilliantly when he said that now it’s ok, you cannot see it in the touristy months, but when winter comes people feel the effects of the cuts everywhere. He was convinced, like many, Greeks would be rich if they still had the Drachma. But he also told me that just two nights back Roman Abramovich had hired the whole island after five PM (surely just the restaurant) for a little party. Russsians sang for four hours. Perhaps it’s because Vidos served as a hospital and quarantine for sick Serbian soldiers during WWI and 5000 were buried at sea. The white flowers still on display were courtesy of the Chelsea Football Club owner and of course the man linked to that meeting near Kassiopi with British Labour peer Lord Mandelson. Ah, to dream of life in the fast lane.

Determined not to have any relevance to the modern world though I was simply concerned with trying to engage with the pretty English redhead at the next table, determinedly locked in her ereader. Courage was useless, despite pretending to be interested in her bus timetable, as I discovered she had astonishing eyes, was an International teacher, dreaming of Greek romance, no doubt, but caught up in The Hunger Games! Woe. She hurried away and I got the boat back, discovering how long it takes to discover a place, and real people in it, beyond surface travel. Lovely to see Corfu town though from a different angle, the big Venetian castle, the pretty nineteenth century shuttered houses, the promontory topped by the old English fort, and why seeing life from a boat is such a different thing from land. Wind comes in, weather, tying up alongside and navigating both people and hard matter. All in our isolated cells, trying to connect, or dock, or be a pirate. We raced towards the giant five story Cruise Liner out of Medeira, with a funnel like a fluking blue whale, billowing smoke, and hooted them bravely before drifting back to land. The tourist season is slowly closely down here, with clouds massing around the island and a brilliant electric storm last night, but it makes the edges clearer, the colours purer, the painters isle a richer place.

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